Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures
Peregrine falcons, an endangered species in New York State, nest on cliffs in the Adirondack Mountains. The population of peregrine falcons has steadily grown since the DEC undertook hacking programs in the Adirondacks in the late 1970s.
Cliffs with known peregrine falcon nesting sites are monitored annually throughout the Adirondacks. Rock climbing routes with active nest sites are temporarily closed to prevent any disturbances that might interfere with the successful raising of the young peregrine falcons.
The closure of climbing routes is based on a number of factors, primarily the route's proximity and visibility to a nesting site. Each situation is unique and a specific distance from the nest site can not be used to make a closure determination. DEC's priority is protecting an endangered species; however, attempts are made to maximize the opportunities for climbing at the same time.
At the beginning of the season DEC closes whole or large portions of cliffs where peregrine falcons have regularly nested. This allows them to choose a nesting site without any being troubled by climbing activity. They often choose a site quickly and begin nesting earlier, than when the cliff's were subject to climbing activities. Climbers benefit because an earlier nesting start results in an earlier fledging of the young and therefore the closed routes are re-opened sooner.
June 20, 2016
Rock climbing routes closed to protect nesting peregrine falcons.
All routes on Moss Cliff and Labor Day Wall remain closed.
Chapel Pond Pass
All routes on the Upper Washbowl Cliff are open and all routes on Lower Washbowl Cliffs remain closed.
All routes within the Amphitheater on the Black Arches Wall (from #86 "Project" to #97 "Gun Show"of Adirondack Rock - A Rock Climber's Guide) and on the Main Face, #98 "Torcher" and #99 "Eating Tripe and Lichen It" are closed. All other climbing routes on the mountain are open.
Sleeping Beauty Mountain, Lake George
ALL routes on Sleeping Beauty Cliff are closed due to the recent discovery of nesting peregrine falcons. The nest site was discovered after a climber reported being harassed by a falcon.
Shelving Rock Mountain, Lake George
All routes on the Main Wall are now open. All routes on the Big Wall and Jackass Buttress (the routes between and including #52 "Enduro Man" and #66 "Winds of Change") and the approach trail to these routes are closed. Please use the lower approach trail that ascends the talus below the Main Wall.
All routes on the Main Face of Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain between and including #26 "Hang 'Em High" and # 82 "Piece of Snatch" will remain closed (See pages 42-64 of Adirondack Rock - A Rock Climber's Guide). All other routes on the Main Face will be open.
These are the climbing routes on the Main Wall that will remain CLOSED:
26. Hang 'Em High
27. Group Therapy
31. A Womb with a View
32. Bathtub Virgin
35. Junior Varsity
36. The Snake
37. 7 Year Itch
38. Roof of All Evil
39. Slime Line
40. Firing Line
43. Creaking Wall
44. Blinded by Rainbows
45. Forget Bullets
47. Freedom Flight
49. Remembering Youth
50. Sound System
52. Autumn Flare
55. Superstition Traverse
57. The Howling
58. Salad Days
59. Climb Control to Major Bob
67. Snake Slide
69. Rodeo Man
70. Summer Solstice
71. Summer Break
72. Wild Blue
73. God's Grace (Pure and Simple)
74. Home Run Derby
75. Karmic Kickback
76. The FM
77. Nose Traverse
78. Sky Traverse
79. Silver Streak
80. Spectacular Rising Traverse
81. The Body Snatcher
82. Piece of Snatch
Efforts are still underway by DEC staff and volunteers to determine the locations of falcon nest sites at Moss Cliff and Labor Day Wall.
DEC appreciates the cooperation of the climbing community. Once the peregrine falcons have begun nesting DEC will open climbing routes that won't interfere with falcon nesting and rearing activities.
Climbers on other cliffs or routes should report any aggressive or agitated peregrine falcon behavior to the DEC Wildlife Office 518-897-1291 or Info.R5@dec.ny.gov
More about Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures:
- Peregrine Falcons and the Adirondack Rock Climber - Facts about Peregrine Falcons and how rock climbers can help to ensure their successful return to the Adirondacks