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Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures

Pergrine Falcon

Peregrine falcons, an endangered species in New York State, nest on cliffs in the Adirondack Mountains. The population of peregrine falcons has steadily grown since the DEC undertook hacking programs in the Adirondacks in the late 1970s.

Cliffs with known peregrine falcon nesting sites are monitored annually throughout the Adirondacks. Rock climbing routes with active nest sites are temporarily closed to prevent any disturbances that might interfere with the successful raising of the young peregrine falcons.

The closure of climbing routes is based on a number of factors, primarily the route's proximity and visibility to a nesting site. Each situation is unique and a specific distance from the nest site can not be used to make a closure determination. DEC's priority is protecting an endangered species; however, attempts are made to maximize the opportunities for climbing at the same time.

At the beginning of the season DEC closes whole or large portions of cliffs where peregrine falcons have regularly nested. This allows them to choose a nesting site without any being troubled by climbing activity. They often choose a site quickly and begin nesting earlier, than when the cliff's were subject to climbing activities. Climbers benefit because an earlier nesting start results in an earlier fledging of the young and therefore the closed routes are re-opened sooner.

Rock Climbing Route Closures - May 16, 2017

The following rock climbing routes are closed to allow peregrine falcons to breed and establish nest sites.

Chapel Pond

All routes on the Upper Washbowl Cliffs are now open.

All routes on the Lower Washbowl Cliffs remain closed.

Poke-o-Moonshine Mountain

Climbing routes on the Main Face between (and including) #33 Garter (formerly #26) and #91 Son of Slime (formerly #83) as listed below, and described Adirondack Rock Volume 1, A Rock Climbers Guide, Second Edition by Lawyer and Haas, are closed. All other routes on the mountain are open.

33. Garter
34. Varsity
35. Junior Varsity
36. The Snake
37. 7 Year Itch
38. Roof of All Evil
39. Slime Line
40. Firing Line
41. Psychosis
42. Microwave
43. Creaking Wall
44. Blinded by Rainbows
45. Forget Bullet
46. Rattlesnake
47. Freedom Flight
48. Project
49. Remembering Youth
50. Sound System
51. Pillar
52. Autumn Flare
53. Katrina
54. Deuteronomy
55. Superstition Traverse
56. Spooks
57. The Howling
58. Salad Days
59. Climb Control To Major Bob
60. Pentecostal
61. Project
62. Verdon
63. Homecoming
64. Ukiah
65. Raindance
66. Libido
67. Snake Slide
68. Scorpion
69. Rodeo Man
70. Summer Solstice
71. Summer Break
72. Wild Blue
73. God's Grace
74. Home Run Derby
75. Karmic Kickback
76. The FM
77. Nose Traverse
78. Sky Traverse
79. Silver Streak
80. Spectacular Rising Traverse
81. The Body Snatcher
82. Piece of Snatch
83. The Snatch
84. Knights in Armor
85. Great Dihedral
86. Half Mile
87. Sea of Seams
88. C-Tips
89. Project
90. Mogster
91. Son of Slime

Crane Mountain

The Amphitheater section of the Black Arches Wall along with routes Hang Time and Black Arch Arête on the Main Wall are closed - all other routes are open.

Shelving Rock Mountain

All routes on the Main Wall are closed.

Sleeping Beauty Mountain

All rock climbing routes are closed.

Current route closure information will be posted at trailheads and online at: http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html

Wilmington Notch

Peregrine falcons have not nested on Moss Cliff the last 2 summers so DEC will not be closing rock climbing routes on Moss Cliff or Labor Day Wall this spring unless nesting activity is observed. Climbers are urged to be cautious and observant while climbing in Wilmington Notch and report any aggressive or agitated peregrine falcon behavior to the DEC Wildlife Office at 518-897-1291 or info.R5@dec.ny.gov.

DEC appreciates the cooperation of the climbing community. Once the peregrine falcons have chosen nest ledges, DEC will open additional climbing routes that won't interfere with peregrine nesting and rearing activities.


More about Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures:

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  • NYSDEC Region 5 Wildlife
    1115 State Route 86
    P.O. Box 296
    Ray Brook, NY 12977
    518-897-1291
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