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Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures

Pergrine Falcon

Peregrine falcons, an endangered species in New York State, nest on cliffs in the Adirondack Mountains. The population of peregrine falcons has steadily grown since the DEC undertook hacking programs in the Adirondacks in the late 1970s.

Cliffs with known peregrine falcon nesting sites are monitored annually throughout the Adirondacks. Rock climbing routes with active nest sites are temporarily closed to prevent any disturbances that might interfere with the successful raising of the young peregrine falcons.

The closure of climbing routes is based on a number of factors, primarily the route's proximity and visibility to a nesting site. Each situation is unique and a specific distance from the nest site can not be used to make a closure determination. DEC's priority is protecting an endangered species; however, attempts are made to maximize the opportunities for climbing at the same time.

At the beginning of the season DEC closes whole or large portions of cliffs where peregrine falcons have regularly nested. This allows them to choose a nesting site without any being troubled by climbing activity. They often choose a site quickly and begin nesting earlier, than when the cliff's were subject to climbing activities. Climbers benefit because an earlier nesting start results in an earlier fledging of the young and therefore the closed routes are re-opened sooner.

Rock Climbing Route Closures - April 6, 2017

The following rock climbing routes are closed to allow peregrine falcons to breed and establish nest sites.

Chapel Pond

All routes on the Upper and Lower Washbowl Cliffs are closed.

Poke-o-Moonshine Mountain

All routes on the Main Face are closed except the following routes described on pages 39-45 of Adirondack Rock - A Rock Climber's Guide:

  1. Opposition
  2. Goat's Foot on Rock
  3. High and Dry
  4. Bushmaster
  5. Big Buddha
  6. Bushido
  7. Bodacious
  8. Pearly Gates
  9. Kaibob
  10. Battle Creek
  11. Static Cling
  12. Certified Raw
  13. Air Male
  14. Son of a Mother
  15. Phase III
  16. Bastard
  17. Ladder
  18. Puppies on Edge
  19. Hang 'Em High
  20. Group Therapy
  21. Adonis
  22. Pandemonium
  23. Discord
  24. A Womb with a View

Crane Mountain

The Amphitheater section of the Black Arches Wall along with routes Hang Time and Black Arch Arête on the Main Wall are closed - all other routes are open.

Shelving Rock Mountain

All routes on the Main Wall are closed.

Sleeping Beauty Mountain

All rock climbing routes are closed.

Current route closure information will be posted at trailheads and online at: http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html

Wilmington Notch

Peregrine falcons have not nested on Moss Cliff the last 2 summers so DEC will not be closing rock climbing routes on Moss Cliff or Labor Day Wall this spring unless nesting activity is observed. Climbers are urged to be cautious and observant while climbing in Wilmington Notch and report any aggressive or agitated peregrine falcon behavior to the DEC Wildlife Office at 518-897-1291 or info.R5@dec.ny.gov.

DEC appreciates the cooperation of the climbing community. Once the peregrine falcons have chosen nest ledges, DEC will open additional climbing routes that won't interfere with peregrine nesting and rearing activities.


More about Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures:

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  • NYSDEC Region 5 Wildlife
    1115 State Route 86
    P.O. Box 296
    Ray Brook, NY 12977
    518-897-1291
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